Macro texture close-up of heavyweight cotton French terry fabric showing dense loopback knit construction

What GSM Actually Means

, 2 min Lesezeit

GSM is grams per square metre — the one honest number in clothing. What 180, 250, and 310GSM actually feel like, explained with the shirts we make.

Every Obrava product page leads with a number: 235GSM. 280GSM. 310GSM. It is the most honest spec in clothing, and almost nobody explains it.

GSM, defined

GSM is grams per square metre — the weight of one square metre of fabric, on a scale. That's the whole definition. No marketing lives inside it. A higher number means more cotton in every inch: thicker hand, more structure, more opacity.

The scale, with reference points

  • 120–160GSM — promotional tees and undershirts. Semi-sheer, and the hem curls after a month of washes.
  • 160–200GSM — the standard. Most mall and fast-fashion tees live here. Fine. Forgettable.
  • 200–250GSM — where "heavyweight" honestly begins. The shirt holds its shape on its own.
  • 250–320GSM — true heavyweight. Boxy silhouettes work at this weight because the fabric can stand, not cling.
  • 320GSM and up — tee territory ends and fleece begins. Hoodies and sweats live here. A 420GSM hoodie carries roughly triple the fabric of a mall tee.

Why weight changes everything

Weight decides how a shirt hangs: light fabric clings and creases, heavy fabric falls straight and holds a silhouette. It decides opacity — no undershirt logic. And it decides lifespan, because more fibre survives more washes. A heavyweight tee fades and softens with age. A light tee warps and thins.

What GSM doesn't tell you

Weight is necessary, not sufficient. Yarn quality matters: 40S combed cotton at 235g wears smoother than coarse yarn at the same weight. Knit density and finish — a sunfade, a snow wash, hand-distressing — change how identical weights feel. GSM tells you how much fabric you're getting. It doesn't tell you how good the fabric is. Read both specs.

The ladder, in shirts we actually make

How to check before you buy

Look for the number in the product specs. If a listing says "thick" or "quality cotton" but won't publish a weight, that is the answer.

Weight is the spec. Everything else is the mark. Start with Core, Kanji Dragon, or Shinsei.

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